The last day of my South American journey

2008 12 February

So this journey is finally coming to an end. It´s kind of weird how time really just flew by. After a while of travelling, time just kind of jumps into cruise control and flies by quicker than anything I´ve ever experienced before. Everytime I´ve gone to a hostel I´ve chatted up a group of people and end up passing my whole day galavanting around the city with them. Yesterday the German girl I hung out with at the beach the previous day left (I think I´m meeting her in Santiago today before my flight leaves) left, and I bought my bus ticket for Santiago so I´m not pressed for time when my flight finally rolls around.

Upon returning I watched the Arsenal v. Blackburn game with these British guys (never seen so much televised soccer in my life – it´s awesome). A guy I met in Santiago showed up at the hostel (Issei Nakaya – a 28 year old freelance boxing journalist from Japan). We went with James, a former Australian lawyer (got tired of his job and quit), as well as Johannes, a 21 year old uni student in Germany, to Mercado del Puerto which is supposed to be the best place in the city to get fish.

The weather for the day, which had initially been overcast and disappointing, suddenly immediately changed to blue skies and bloody sunny during our walk to the restaurant. The restaurant is in the part of Valpo that is really falling apart, and that adds to the experience. That experienced is further enhanced by the band that plays in the restaurant, the paper-thin 2nd floor we sat on, along with the makeshift homemade staircase that goes up to the 2nd floor. Menu of the day – 1800 pesos. Sounds good. Following some difficulties while being lost in translation (cebolla = onion), we got our amazing fish (scales, tail, and spinal cord included!) along with some potatoes and some onion and tomato sidedish – ensalada chilleno.

Issei, who has enough trouble with English (in light of him having lived in Brooklyn for 5 years), let alone Spanish, ordered a 1.6 litre water. Upon receiving the bill he discovered that his water cost 2000 pesos (a little more than 5 dollars, and 200 pesos more than the meal itself). He then proceeded to flip out in English, Japanese, and Spanish all at the same time, and did his best to argue the ludicrous price he was to pay. He did so, albeit unsuccessfully.

We returned home where I took a siesta (which was shortened due to the vicious bedbugs, or whatever the hell has been crawling in my bed the last 3 days, biting me) and Johannes, Issei, and I headed to Concepcion (the rich part of Valpo) that night. We were famished (moriamos de hambre!), so we stopped at an empanada place that can be described as no more than a tiny rectangular room, a glass jewelry case (which had an upside down 40 inch flat screen tv in it), a leather sofa behind the case (which was being used as the ¨counter¨), and an oven. Amazing empanadas though, and only 690 pesos (470ish = $1). Concepcion was not too impressive as it looked mostly like the rest of the city minus the grime. We then returned back to the hostel where we made pasta (hey, gotta save money), which might have been the best pasta I´ve ever made (bolognesa sauce).

Speaking of money – the first 2 days in Chile I spent 70,000 pesos. In the last 8 days, I´ve spent 48,000 pesos.  During these 8 days, I´ve been in Santiago, Punta Arenas (bottom of Chile 3500 km away), Valpo (150 km north of Santiago), and Vina del Mar (5 km from Valpo). Lot of distance, little money. So I accidentally became quite a penurious lad. This leaves me with 22,000 pesos to spend in the next 15 hours – I´m not bringing this monopoly money home with me.

72 bites (I counted), 3 days, and not enough pesos later, I´m leaving Valpo.

Then Chile for the States tonight at 10:40 PM


South America continued…

2008 21 January

So Jeff and I arrived in Buenos Aires the night of the 19th. It was raining like crazy in Asuncion that night, so it was pertty fortunate that we had already seen the four sites that Paraguay had to offer. After a free transfer to the airport, we waited for our plane for roughly an hour and a half. An intersting note: the 3 ounce/100 ml rule doesn´t seem to exist in Paraguay. I brought a 5 litre bottle of water with me to the airport, asked if I could bring it through security and the only thing they requested was that I take a sip of the water. I could have given a whole new meaning to the phrase agua con gas. That is, if I chose to. We got into Buenos Aires about 7 PM and took a no frills cab ride for 70 pesos. It´s about 35 kilometers from the airport to the hostel, but our driver still made it to our hostel in about 20 minutes by driving roughly 70 miles per hour in spite of the 80 kmh speed limit.

We proceeded directly to the nearest steak restaurant where we enjoyed a 2 beef tenderloins from a free-range grass-fed cows for the low low price of 12 dollars including potatoes and 2 waters a piece. Man it´s a good thing I was saving my money so diligently. I don´t even enjoy steak or red meat that much, but this was to die for. No joke.

The next day, I woke up really early and met a woman named Giovanna who had done Peace Corps in Slovakia back in 1996. She heard Jeff and I saying “bohuzel” like crazy so she started speaking to us in Slovak. Later that day (yesterday), Jeff, Giovanna a Swiss girl named Natalie and I headed to La Boca, the Italian neighborhood in Buenos Aires where we enjoyed a nice market as well as the extremely brightly coloured buildings in the area. In addition to that, we learned to not to take our lives for granted while our cab driver, Arribal, crossed streets without looking either way.

After a roughly 5 km walk back to the hostel we took off once again for someplace new. This time we headed to the San Telmo market, which hosted a huge antiques market around the corner from our hostel. We weren´t too keen on having steak again (at least for dinner anyway), so we took a trek, which ended up bringing us to the Obelisk in the northern part of the city (a walk of about 12 km –> see tired). That night we went out for steak yet again (come on, it´s 6 bucks!), and since I had to wake up for a 7 AM flight (I had our good crazy taxi driver friend Arribal drive me!), I headed to bed pretty early.

Upon arriving in Cordoba this morning, I found that the city seems to be a mix of Napa Valley and Spain, neither of which I have been to. It´s a very modern city of 1.2 million people with the only old buildings in the center (which I´m staying in). I was on fire with my Spanish this morning, and was so damn proud. I took a bus into town for 1.2 pesos (a new, nice, very un-Buenos Aires like Volkswagen bus).

I wasn´t able to withdraw money at the airport, but I wasn´t too worried. However, once I got into town, I realised that no ATM´s were accepting my card. I arrived at 8:20 in the morning, and by 12:30 in the afternoon, I was still looking for an ATM that would accept my card. I ended up having to call my bank in the US to figure out why the hell I couldn´t use my card. They advised me to head to a Citibank to withdraw money. Once I did this, and failed again, I went to customer service to ask what I should do. I was amazed that I was able to explain this in Spanish – and explain it well at that (I had 10 centavos which is about 3 cents, and couldn´t pay for anything with my credit card. I guess I was in fight or flight mode). All in alll, I wandered around and before I finally found a place where I could withdraw money, I had visited 47 ATMs (out of the 210 in the city) and spoken with people at 7 banks (all in Spanish).

So I withdrew about a billion pesos – not going to deal with this garbage anymore.