Montevideo observations

2008 31 January

I found a man selling watching and tools (go figure how those fit together) and Kat, the Scottish girl wanted to buy a watch. I tried to haggle with him but he was firm and told me they sell the same watch for 400 pesos as oppose to the 250 pesos that he was selling them for. I then asked him why he sold angle grinders, screwdrivers, and then sold watches. He told me that he has been sitting in the same spot for 10 years and just sells whatever he has. Apparently when it´s wintertime, he sells socks. When it rains, he sells umbrellas.

Upon taking the Montevideo busses for the first time today, I really got a good laugh. You see the bus driver when you get on, but totally ignore him. Then there is a sort of cashier that you pay for your bus fare. He sits in a big comfy seat in front of a cash register, and gives you your ticket.

Furthermore, there is a sign that says “Tomar mate está prohibido.” In English – to drink mate is prohibited. Apparently because the hot water that goes in it (it´s a kind of tea) can burn fellow passengers.


Montevideo continued…

2008 30 January

So yesterday after strolling around the city, I met some people at the hostel and we all sat around and drank a bit while watching Stranger than Fiction (terrible movie by the way). Afterward, the hostel (like most of the city) was pretty boring, so after getting word of some sort of Carneval party, we decided to check it out. Danny (An Australian riding his bike around the continent), Kat (A Scottish girl from Portsmouth), and some American guy (whose name I´ve forgotten) headed to the Carneval festival. The festival itself was more or less like a fair – there were bleachers set up, concessions, and a stage where groups performed. We watched about 2 acts (both of which were dressed in ridiculously bright clothing), but it was really unexciting. When I was talking to our taxi driver on the way to the Carneval, he told me that everybody in the city was on vacation (which was extremely apparent with the COMPLETE lack of people/cars on the road at 10 PM) so there weren´t many people in the city. After that was over, we simply went home and went to sleep.

Montevideo isn´t the most exciting place. More of a place for relaxing it seems.

Today, Kat, Danny, and I headed over to Mercado del Puerto (a huge former train station or something that now houses tons of restaurants) to complete our tour of the city. I saw that the Queen Elizabeth 2 was docked in the Montevideo port when I got off my ferry from Buenos Aires, so we headed over to take some pictures (HUGE boat).

However, apparently this was also on the naval base, so we needed a Buquebus boarding pass to be able to enter the area. After convincing the naval guard (who was a softy it seemed), he let us go to the corner, but flipped out when he saw his boss was around the corner. But we got our pictures, than got a picture with this paranoid naval guard. Good times. Then we headed over to the Mercado del Puerto (one of the top things to see in South America apparently) and had a medio y medio which is some sort of wine and wine combination that is REALLY sweet. Cost? 25 pesos (a little more than a dollar).

In other news, I´m finding myself becoming stingier with my money since things are so cheap here (FOUR dollars for dinner? I don´t think so.)

Then…I walked around the perimeter of the city because…there´s that much to do.


The last day in Bs As and Montevideo

2008 29 January

So yesterday I had the grand plan of waking up, timing how long it took to walk to the boat port so I´d know when to leave the following morning to catch the ferry to Montevideo. Very elaborate plans, I know. All in all, I got done with everything and back to the hostel at around noon and had some food. A guy I´d met the following night, Will (a Chinese guy from Australia who sounds EXACTLY like the gecko from the Geico commercials), asked if I wanted to join him and 2 girls that had just arrived for lunch. There I met Shelli, an Aussie who was travelling around the world, and Raquel (pronounced ahk-yow) a girl who was in Buenos Aires for 10 days instead of her hometown of Rio because, as she put it “I left Rio because I am intelligent.” For those of you that don´t know, it´s Carneval in Rio, and Brazil for that matter, starting this weekend = more than crazy.

We enjoyed a nice breakfast/lunch, and I learned that Raquel was a huge Denver Broncos fan (for whatever reason), and she said she cried whenever the Broncos would lose. She, like many others, thought the Broncos defense sucked this year, and she wasn´t too fond of Cutler, *shrug*. Our meal included an AMAZING bottle of Argentinian Malbec wine (Argentina makes the best Malbec wine in the world since they have the best climate for it in Mendoza, a city I was in the previous week) for about 6 dollars.

Following lunch, we met up with another Australian, Yissin, and headed off to the Recoleta. The Recoleta is where all the hyper rich were buried in Buenos Aires in incredibly ornate tombs. Eva Peron (Evita) was buried there as well. The cemetary itself was incredible and had some of the most incredible tombs I´d ever seen. A lot of them looked like small houses, and I apparently it´s they´re expensive than buying a house. We also found a tomb that had been broken (into?)where we saw a coffin that had gotten ripped open. We got to see a 200 year old skeleton head – weird.

Following some asking of the locals, I was able to navigate the bus system for all of us, and we made it back to our hostel. Will, who hadn´t joined us for the trip to Recoleta, said that a group of people were going to some percussion event somewhere in the outer parts of Buenos Aires. It cost 5 pesos to get in, or in other words, it was in my price range.

When we showed up, it became readily apparent that this was where all the hipsters of Buenos Aires were. It was like going to and indie concert in the States. So that gave me an idea of what to expect. The venue itself was this huge gigantic warehouse complex, and roughly 13 guys were onstage playing epic percussion/tribal beats. I don´t know how else to refer to the atmosphere than to call it an indie rave. It was nuts.

We got home from that around 10:30 and I packed up my stuff and went to bed since I had to leave for the boat port early in the morning.

The boat to Montevideo was very cool. It was on this gigantic hovercraft (that had all the informational things on the backs of the seats/warning signs in Norweigan…for whatever reason) that held roughly 450 people and was no less than a palace. Leather couches, bars, shops, you name it. When we got up to full speed (about 65 mph), we clipped along quite nicely all the way to Montevideo in about 3 hours.

I didn´t write down the address of my hostel, so I aimlessly wandered towards the old town of Montevideo since I knew my hostel was somewhere in that direction. By whatever luck, I ended up running right into it. Dropped off my stuff and walked the town. I took a Richard/Japanese style self guided tour of the city and saw everything the guide says to see in a little under an hour and a half. Then I walked from one side of the old town to the other which took a whopping 12 minutes (it´s 7 blocks). Very nice and completely different vibe than the rest of South America. Cleaner too. A lot cleaner.


Save the penny!

2008 27 January

They have nothing under 10 centavos coins here. This means that if you need change of 6 centavos or something, you receive change. But not in the moneda, you receive it in candy. With the current obesity epidemic in the U.S. our society simply can not afford to get rid of the penny. Getting rid of the penny could yield plague-like consequences! Millions dead because we decided to do away with the penny!

But being in the US, they´d probably just round the price up.


Iguazu

2008 26 January

So today I flew into Puerto Iguazu and immediately headed to the waterfalls (Las cataratas) after checking in.

I decided to spend the 18 dollars to take a speedboat to the falls which was absolutely beyond awesome. The driver brought us right underneath the falls and got us completely drenched – I thought the camera was toast, but thankfully it wasnt (no need to worry dad).

I also took a 4×4 trip for about 5 km through the park. With it being in a subtropical rainforest, there are tons of animals and vegetation that was just beautiful – as wella s the biggest ants Ive ever seen in my life. I will try to find place to upload pictures because they are amazing. They just cant do justice to these falls (the biggest in the world). After seeing the falls and walking every single path through the park, I missed the train back to the central station, and instead of waiting, opted to walk it out. Well, 2 kilometers into said trip, I remembered that there are pumas in this rainforest. Fortunately I didnt run into any of them though.

Its pretty pointless to prattle on about the falls because pictures (and the movies I took) will portray the sheer power of the falls and the awe you are left with upon seeing them.

Back to Buenos Aires tomorrow – 4 plane flights in 6 days. Gross.


You know you´re in South America when…

2008 25 January

You see a guy on a bicycle riding down the highway

You see a man riding a horse down the highway

You see a car driving through a park, simply because it´s quicker than taking a road.

The street vendors immediately stop selling crappy wind-up toys and start selling umbrellas when it starts to rain. “Paraguas, paraguas, vendo paraguas”

You can buy a bag of yoghurt.

You can buy a bag of milk.

You can buy a box of fortified liquid that “now contains orange/apple juice!”

It´s common to see people on horses collecting garbage among the busses/taxis/cars.

The international airport has one gate

The international airport has one airplane on the tarmac

You´re on that airplane


Mendoza and Cordoba

2008 24 January

So the second day I was in Cordoba, since I had seen everything in the city the previous day during my endless search for an ATM, there wasn´t much left to see in the city. I scheduled a mountain bike ride in Alta Gracia which is about an hour bus ride from Cordoba. Upon waking up in the morning, I found it was raining – like a hurricane. So I had to throw the biking idea out the window.

I looked through some books and discovered that Che Guevara grew up in Alta Gracia from the age of 4 through most of his childhood – so off I went to the bus station.

The bus station itself was a madhouse, but eventually I found the 3 peso bus (about 90 cents) to Alta Gracia. The bus itself held about 16 people and was pretty comfortable. The bus got into Alta Gracia and took various stops and completely desolate places as well as several fruit stands that were in the middle of nowhere. Finally, the bus stopped at the final stop in god-knows-where Alta Gracia. There was nobody in the bus stop except me, nobody in the streets except me (as well as dogs and random roaming horses), but at least Che´s house was close.

His neighborhood was a relatively prominent area it seems. Compared to the rest of the city, it´s full of palaces. The house was cool, full of bicycles, motorcycles, maps of where he went, letters he wrote, etc. etc. Aside from the tour, Alta Gracia is relatively boring and full of dirt roads, and it appeared that absolutely nothing was open. Not even houses had open windows or anything. It was like I walked into a ghost city. So after stumbling around for 2 hours, I headed back to the bus station.

The workers at the train station were apparently taking a million hour siesta, so I was left with the option of just sitting on a bench and watching the dogs and horses wander around. Occassionally a bus would show up and I´d ask the driver if he was going to Cordoba. One eventually was and I got the bus back for a cool 3 pesos.

Alta Gracia is boring.

I arrived at a different bus station in Cordoba (which ended up being the one I would leave from that night), so I explored the neighborhood where I found some local restaurant. I sat down and after around 20 minutes of watching Argentinas version of the Biggest Loser, somebody came up to me and in the most extreme Castellano voice, he asked me what I wanted and told me there was no menu. Great. I ordered a Milanesa de pollo, but the way he pronounced it, he made it seem like I had the option of ordering Milanesa de carne (meat) or de porzo/pozo/postre/any other similar sounding word.

That meal  (milanesa, mixed salad, bottled water) set me back a HUGE 7 pesos. Whoa man, I better start budgeting.

I went back to the hostel and just took a nap before my 11:30 bus ride to Mendoza, Argentina.

The bus station was a mad house and my bus ticket advised for me to look for the bus from the stops 15 through 30 (way to narrow it down for me, that´s half the station). The bus arrived about 30 minutes late and was incredible. We´re talking huge gigantic recliner like seats. It was so nice I would´ve taken that bus across the world. They even had somebody pass us out sandwiches, and a sweet dulce de leche treat in the morning. Amazing.

I arrived into Mendoza around 10 AM and made my way to the hostel which was just a 10 minute walk to the west. Since it was early, I decided that I would probably need to do something that day even though I was exhausted. I ended up taking a tour of 2 wineries and a tour of an olive oil factory in the Mendozan suburb of Maipu. It was nice, but I was completely beat by the end. I got back around 7 PM, ate and went to sleep.

This morning the weather was still pretty bad (sporadically raining and overcast like the day before, but I decided to rent a bicycle anyway. I went to the store to buy some breakfast (where I´m known as the person who left without his 50 pesos in change – which I subsequently lost anyway) and after, I went and to rent a bicycle to cruise around El Parque San Martin – a park to the west of the city that is bigger than Central Park in New York City. The map of the city is completely worthless in the park, and I found that roads went nowhere that the map indicated. I ended up riding to a million different places, but always ending up in the same place in the end. Bohuzel. After I abandoned the map idea, I resorted to riding to the highest point of the park and riding as fast as possible down. It was really nice outside when I was riding around, so it was pretty worthwhile.

I decided to post because the place I rented from the bike from is…closed, on siesta, lunch…or something. I have no idea where they are. They just have a sign that says (in Spanish) “Bell doesn´t work, scream or sing strongly (loudly). They have my state ID, and frankly, I still want it. I don´t know what I´m going to do if they don´t open again. Maybe sell the bike?


I´m cleared

2008 22 January

                                                                                                January 22, 2008
                                                                                               
MR.  RICHARD J. GOGGINS
1059 DOWNING ST.
DENVER, CO 80218
 
Dear Mr.  Goggins:
 
Thank you for submitting all the requested medical and dental information to the Office of Medical Services.  You have been medically and dentally qualified for Peace Corps service. 
 
Your application will now be considered by the Office of Placement, which matches the experience of medically qualified applicants with the requirements of available assignments.  They will notify you directly of their decision.
 
You are required to bring a three (3) month supply of all your current medication/s to country with you. (Peace Corps will use generic equivalents whenever possible while you are in service).   If you have any medication allergies, please wear a Med-alert bracelet at all times while you are in Peace Corps service.
 
Remember that your medical/dental clearance is based on your current status. Please notify the Office of Medical Services immediately if you become ill, undergo surgery, add or change medications (including birth control pills or injections), undergo therapy/treatment, or develop any condition for which you seek medical assistance.  Any significant change in your current health status may impact on your medical/dental clearance.  Failure to disclose such information may seriously affect your health overseas, as well as your status as a Peace Corps Trainee/Volunteer. 
 
If you have any questions, we can be reached at 1-800-424-8580, Ext. 1500.  Our fax number is 202-692-1561.
 
Sincerely,
 
                                                                                                (e-mail copy)
 
Robert L. Gordon, RN
Office of Medical Services

So there you have it folks. I have cleared the hardest part of the Peace Corps process. I have completed the entire Peace Corps process in a cool 58 days since I first turned in my application. When I find out what what my country will be I will keep people posted.


South America continued…

2008 21 January

So Jeff and I arrived in Buenos Aires the night of the 19th. It was raining like crazy in Asuncion that night, so it was pertty fortunate that we had already seen the four sites that Paraguay had to offer. After a free transfer to the airport, we waited for our plane for roughly an hour and a half. An intersting note: the 3 ounce/100 ml rule doesn´t seem to exist in Paraguay. I brought a 5 litre bottle of water with me to the airport, asked if I could bring it through security and the only thing they requested was that I take a sip of the water. I could have given a whole new meaning to the phrase agua con gas. That is, if I chose to. We got into Buenos Aires about 7 PM and took a no frills cab ride for 70 pesos. It´s about 35 kilometers from the airport to the hostel, but our driver still made it to our hostel in about 20 minutes by driving roughly 70 miles per hour in spite of the 80 kmh speed limit.

We proceeded directly to the nearest steak restaurant where we enjoyed a 2 beef tenderloins from a free-range grass-fed cows for the low low price of 12 dollars including potatoes and 2 waters a piece. Man it´s a good thing I was saving my money so diligently. I don´t even enjoy steak or red meat that much, but this was to die for. No joke.

The next day, I woke up really early and met a woman named Giovanna who had done Peace Corps in Slovakia back in 1996. She heard Jeff and I saying “bohuzel” like crazy so she started speaking to us in Slovak. Later that day (yesterday), Jeff, Giovanna a Swiss girl named Natalie and I headed to La Boca, the Italian neighborhood in Buenos Aires where we enjoyed a nice market as well as the extremely brightly coloured buildings in the area. In addition to that, we learned to not to take our lives for granted while our cab driver, Arribal, crossed streets without looking either way.

After a roughly 5 km walk back to the hostel we took off once again for someplace new. This time we headed to the San Telmo market, which hosted a huge antiques market around the corner from our hostel. We weren´t too keen on having steak again (at least for dinner anyway), so we took a trek, which ended up bringing us to the Obelisk in the northern part of the city (a walk of about 12 km –> see tired). That night we went out for steak yet again (come on, it´s 6 bucks!), and since I had to wake up for a 7 AM flight (I had our good crazy taxi driver friend Arribal drive me!), I headed to bed pretty early.

Upon arriving in Cordoba this morning, I found that the city seems to be a mix of Napa Valley and Spain, neither of which I have been to. It´s a very modern city of 1.2 million people with the only old buildings in the center (which I´m staying in). I was on fire with my Spanish this morning, and was so damn proud. I took a bus into town for 1.2 pesos (a new, nice, very un-Buenos Aires like Volkswagen bus).

I wasn´t able to withdraw money at the airport, but I wasn´t too worried. However, once I got into town, I realised that no ATM´s were accepting my card. I arrived at 8:20 in the morning, and by 12:30 in the afternoon, I was still looking for an ATM that would accept my card. I ended up having to call my bank in the US to figure out why the hell I couldn´t use my card. They advised me to head to a Citibank to withdraw money. Once I did this, and failed again, I went to customer service to ask what I should do. I was amazed that I was able to explain this in Spanish – and explain it well at that (I had 10 centavos which is about 3 cents, and couldn´t pay for anything with my credit card. I guess I was in fight or flight mode). All in alll, I wandered around and before I finally found a place where I could withdraw money, I had visited 47 ATMs (out of the 210 in the city) and spoken with people at 7 banks (all in Spanish).

So I withdrew about a billion pesos – not going to deal with this garbage anymore.


Information about the rally we went to

2008 19 January